When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.
“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.
